Question about transplanting a crabapple

Of course, waitng till fall would be the best. And it is not going to grow so much more this summer to make it more difficult to move in the fall. But whether you wait or not…...take as much of the root ball as you possible can and water, water, water.

-- 'To plant a Garden is to believe in Tomorrow'

I agree with Iris I think I would wait till the fall to move it too.

-- Bon,Hastings,Ont.....zone 5a....Always room for one more

I dug a crabapple tree ( Dolgo ) out last July from our previous home when we were moving, it was stuck in the moving truck for 5 days over the July long weekend, transplanted here in Ottawa in the heat of summer, thought I lost it but it’s now flowering.

For those that remember, the tree was planted in 2008 when my son was born, so it has sentimental value. It took me over 1hr to dig it out at the time

-- Hooked on Gardening.....Ontario zone 5b

It’s killing me to not move it now – it has doubled in size since I planted it last fall. We’ve had the rainiest, roughest spring I’ve experienced since moving here in ‘89, and worry that the root system is growing like crazy. I’ve read that crabapples are one of the most tolerant and easiest to transplant and I’m on vacation for nearly two weeks starting the middle of next week. I may be bad and risk it. If I do, I’ll dig a huge diameter hole and trim as little root as possible. Hopefully then the tree won’t use too much energy to regrow feeder roots. I won’t prune it at all this season, I want it to be able to produce all the energy it can. Hmm. I see I’ve talked myself into it. Wish my poor abused tree the best!

-- ~ Cindy, Virginia Appalachians, UDSA Hardiness Zone 6 ~

yah – wish it the best, give it good, loving thoughts before, during, and after, and talk to it lots, to help it recover quickly.

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

If you decide against the move, you can train the branches to move in the direction you want. The horticulturalist from OSU stated that the branches can be trained in as little as six weeks using spreaders and twine. When young enough even wooden clothes pins will be suitable.

-- If you wouldn't spray it in your mouth, why would you spray it on your food?

Your comment “I won’t prune it at all this season” caught my attention. I am not an expert at moving trees, but I do know that if you reduce the size of the roots of a plant by transplanting, it is a good idea to reduce the upper part of the plant similarly, otherwise the roots may be unable to support all the growth on the upper part of the tree. I know when I transplanted my hawthorn, the deep spreading roots were difficult to remove but I got as many as I could, made clean cuts to eliminate any damaged root pieces (invites infection) and then heavily pruned the branches on top so that the roots would have a chance to re-establish themselves.

Good luck. Crab apple trees are pretty tough, I wish you the best.

-- "To forget how to dig the earth and to tend the soil is to forget ourselves." M. Gandhi

Hmmm, Radicalfarmergal, I’ll have to read up on that. I’d always thought (and don’t know why) that pruning the branches with the roots added extra stress to the tree, and slightly hindered recovery as the tree was doing double-time, as it were, to grow. Thanks for bringing it up, you gave me food for thought…

Vince, I had some friends look at the trees too, and we all feel that when full grown the branches will intermingle by a good 6 – 8 feet or possibly more (my “full grown” crabapple which is about 12 years old had a growth spurt this year. Heck, I think it does every year now that I think back!) So a move at some point is inevitable…but thanks for the idea!

-- ~ Cindy, Virginia Appalachians, UDSA Hardiness Zone 6 ~

Just an update to anyone that might notice – lol. I’ve decided to put my impatience aside and do what’s right for the poor tree – after all it’s shaping up to be a stunner, and I should reward it’s efforts ; )

I’ll wait until fall to transplant it. My reading says after the leaves drop but before a hard frost is best. Thanks to all for your input!

-- ~ Cindy, Virginia Appalachians, UDSA Hardiness Zone 6 ~

now don’t you feel better? :)

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

If you don’t wish to move it , you can can train the branches to move in the direction you want. Or u can just cut the branches and keep it short enough that will solve your problem

-- http://www.mightygarden.com/flower-gardening.html