Row Direction

not sure if it matters.

I plant mine in the longest rows possible to enable the rototiller to go from one end to the other…...less work, less fuel, less ware and tare on the machine, less weeds, less time

-- Central northish Ontario

I always planted north to south to allow sun on both sides of the plant. Now you made me think, how many sides are there to a plant 2, 4, 6? If you plant multiple rows north and south do the 1st plants in the rows now become a row that is east and west. I guess I do not know.

-- Central Valley California

I would suggest that it doesn’t matter which way you row for tilling. It ends up to be the same amount of square footage to till one way or the other (except there’s no sense in having to turn the tiller any more than is necessary. Once you’re on a row, stay there for as long as possible.) However, if your rows are far apart, it might be suggested the the rows be planted north/south to let the sun shine from the sides. One plant would not block the one behind it since the plants are probably closer together in the rows as opposed to row to row distance.

I plant based on the slope, crossways so water is retained in the furrows between rows rather than running down the row and out. I have various grades wherever I plant.

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist......Zone out....(USA 5)

thanks everyone

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

You know, 35+ years of gardening, and I can’t say I ever noticed a difference.
I run the rows both ways different years to break up the pathways, they get terribly packed down if the rows never change.
Unless you are completely blocking the sun,(Huge tree or building) it won’t make alot of difference.
If you used a light meter to measure available light, you would see little difference in intensity between rows, ran any direction

-- Old Pharmer Phils Country Living Phorum - http://pharmerphil.proboards37.com

good to know.

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

oh another tidbit to consider! excellent

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

The best way to plant rows may be not to plant rows at all. Mixing different plants in a bed has several advantages as compared with monoculture rows. Mixed beds reduce plant to plant pest movement. Plants with roots at different soil levels can produce more per square foot. Planting carrots around tomatoes helps protect both and increases yield. I’d strongly suggest looking in a book on permaculture for thoise interested in this more organic way of gardening.

Great advise weedman…I grew a ton of food in a tiny 5ft square using Fukuoka's methods.

-- Xploreorganics, 5b Canada, LFD 06-20

and the tips keep coming in.
I was going to plant most of my veggies in “squares” rather than rows…

I’ve done some reading on “companion planting” but it all just gets muddled in my head by the time I want to use the information.

I like the “Plant carrots in with the tomatoes”... I think I can remember that.

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

I’m a firm believer in rows. It’s alot harder to cultivate and what-not if there are no clear paths to run a tractor or cultivator.

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist......Zone out....(USA 5)

I have to agree, rows are the only way to go in a large garden. I don’t have to worry about the really bas storm winds as my barn protects that direction… that being said the summer thunderstorms are anyones guesses as the one side is the only one that has any protection, it’s wide open spaces every other side ;)

I guess I go a bit against the grain here as I plant my rows east-west… My tomato plants alone turn into a 5’wall, and thats not including my giant sunflowers.. my rows are atleast 4’ appart so theres not any shading. I wanted the plants to get asmuch light as possible. They get jostled around each year so everythings not growing in the same spot.

Thanks
sib ;)

If you plant your seeds so that plants cover the soil – as is seen in nature everywhere, it doesn’t allow room for weeds. Thus, you don’t need to destroy the soil structure while weeding and preparing your beds. Plant new seeds or seedlings in the holes made when you harvest a plant. That way you have a continuously growing garden throughout the seasons. This is not to say that you plant randomly though. Permaculture is a huge topic that includes zoning your garden (everything you own is part of your garden) and how to plant in ways that mimic nature in important ways.

this permaculture stuff sounds interesting

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a)

The degree of slope needs to be considered .Planting across the slope will prevent errosion.

-- horsetail, Fergus, Ontario

Horsetail – right on. Putting gentle swales into a slope also helps prevent erosion while trapping moisture. You don’t need to water artificially as much.

Definately not something I have to worry about here, in essex county aside from the plains it dosen’t come much flatter in ontario!
Sib ;)