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Adding outdoor stairs on a slope (pic included)

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Topic by MikeHGA79 posted 180 days ago 1642 views 1 time favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

180 days ago

Hey Everyone,

I’m looking to add some stairs and incorporate them into my retaining wall. Our house is on top of a slope so I’d like to provide an easier way to get to the front door for our friends and family that visit (instead of making them walk up our steep driveway.

I basically want to split my retaining wall/yard in half and go straight up to meet the stairway to the porch. The retaining wall is about 2.5-3 feet high and I was thinking about just curving the wall in a little bit to create the split for the stairway.

I’d like any input on any considerations for a project like this. Here are some concerns I have.

The slope is fairly steep, generally, is there a “code” on what the rise and run of each step can be?

Materials…..concrete, pavers, stone….I’d prefer a more cost effective option but I don’t want to use wood. Outside of cost what other considerations should I think about?

The soil is fairly sandy and shown a tendency to erode on that slope….what is the proper prep for putting stairs on a slope? Gravel base, concrete, etc?

Here is a picture of my front yard and where I want the stairs.

Thanks for the input!

Stairs

View jroot's profile

jroot

3123 posts in 744 days
hardiness zone 5a

180 days ago

I think that putting stairs where you indicate would look quite nice, and I encourage you to do so. You will probably need a railing of some sort also.

Generally speaking, you are ALWAYS better off to check with the municipality about codes. They vary from place to place, just as soil varies from place to place. For example, my neighbour wanted to build a deck on the back of his home. His uncle would help him, as he had built many decks. So they built a large deck 25 feet x 12 feet wide. All was wonderful, until my neighbour wanted to sell. Since the deck had been built without a permit, before he could sell, he had to buy a permit, only to find out that it had to be remade as the specifications for permits had changed recently, so it had to be built according to the latest specs. Lesson learned.

I include a photo of what I have here at the back of the property. They are basicly concrete rectangular forms minus the centre into which can be put screenings and topped with concrete pavers. They are stacked on end upon the one below. Easy to lay, and they don’t rot. I wish that I had made mine wider ( a double width) though, so that is something to consider when doing yours. As you can see, I will have to add more sand under the bricks every few years due to settling. I have another neighbour who used this idea, but he turned his 90 degrees so the stairs were wider. They are really very nice. I am thinking that this would work well for you.

-- jroot

View Catspaw's profile

Catspaw

243 posts in 911 days

180 days ago

There shouldn’t be any codes regarding an outside (landscaping) feature such as stairs. But I suppose you can check anyway.

Typical rise will be between 7 1/2” and 8”. 8” being the max. This is in regards to older folks. Anything above 8” becomes taxing. When the rises get to be less than around 4” or 5” it can become hard to judge and becomes a trip hazard.

Since these aren’t in a house, the run can be just about anything to fit the topography. When laying out the run, keep in mind that steps that require two footprints….another words, say, step up with your left foot then take another step on the same tread with your right foot before getting to the next step….means you will keep lifting yourself with the same leg/foot. Do this too many times and that one leg will get abit tired.

I think it’s better to layout a long flat section betw3een major changes and keep the rise at a decent dimension of 6” or 7”. Again, in other words….and when you can…. a couple (or however many necessary) of normal steps, then, maybe a flat run to another couple of normal steps, etc.

Beware of the slope. You want the steps to drain, but, you don’t want the tread area to slope so much that when there is snow on them you could actually slip on the down slope.

The same goes for flat transitions that can be formed between sets of steps. They can gain you some altitude without inserting a real short step, but, you don’t want them really slope-y.

brain is empty now.

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist......Zone out....(USA 5)

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jroot

3123 posts in 744 days
hardiness zone 5a

179 days ago

Well said, Catspaw

-- jroot

View MikeHGA79's profile

MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

179 days ago

Thanks for everyone’s feedback, this forum is full of great info.

I had a landscaper come out yesterday to give me an estimate on my driveway and I also had him write up an estimate for the stairs I mentioned above.

He suggested using 18 inch wide cap stones that are about 4 inches high. Stacking them two wide and two high, creating a 36 inch wide step and making it about 8 inches high for the rise. I’m not sure how deep the cap stones are for the “run” but I don’t think that would be a big problem.

View Josh's profile

Josh

42 posts in 567 days

179 days ago

I like the idea of stone. I would look at adding some kind of bench. I’ll admit i love benches, but to me a nice cedar bench a few stairs up would look great. Maybe on a longer run like catspaw suggested.

jroot, very nice set up. Looks relaxing.

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jroot

3123 posts in 744 days
hardiness zone 5a

179 days ago

Yes indeed, Josh. A bench upon which to rest part way up for the weary. Practical, and looks great too. Good idea. Maybe opposite the bench a planting of some sort also for symmetry’s sake. I like it.

-- jroot

View MikeHGA79's profile

MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

179 days ago

I’ll probably opt for the planting….I think it would be a great opportunity to plant some eye catching flowers on either side of the steps on the way up.

View Greenthumb's profile

Greenthumb

1762 posts in 934 days

178 days ago

A client once said to me. “You can make anything look good if you throw enough money at it”

Question: Why wouldnt your family/guests drive up the driveway and then walk to the door? Do they have to park on the road?

thats quite a large project and at my age, there isnt a chance I would attempt that without some serious heavy equipment. Like Catspaw has said. “Drainage itself, is a concern”. I am always suspect when I see a retaining wall because the part that makes or breaks it, is unseen.buried. Water freezing, thawing, freezing, thawing can reek havoc on countless hours and money thrown into a project. Running water can destroy a well made set of outdoor steps in a “Jiffy”...............look no further then the Grand Canyon.

Lots of packed stone/fill, lots of concrete and re-bar, lots of field tile, lots of stone (man made or other). That is a serious undertaking and I wish you the very best.

-- Central northish Ontario

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MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

178 days ago

Yeah, family and guests have to park on the street. We have a complicated driveway and most people would rather avoid the “adventure” and park at the street.

View Greenthumb's profile

Greenthumb

1762 posts in 934 days

178 days ago

might I suggest a “chair lift”.........kidding ?

-- Central northish Ontario

View DavesYard's profile

DavesYard

301 posts in 171 days
hardiness zone 5b

170 days ago

one idea is to have varying (random) runs throughout. personally i find this very pleasing if done right.

-- Remember when you were young, you shone like the sun.. shine on you crazy diamond

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MsDebbieP

7956 posts in 1114 days
hardiness zone 5b

170 days ago

yah very nice. I especially like that last one as it seems like a little path through nature

-- - Debbie, SW Ontario Canada (USDA Hardiness Zone: 5a) http://www.execulink.com/~yohan

View MikeHGA79's profile

MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

170 days ago

Those look nice….I got the estimate from the landscaper….about 3K, and that’s done with the same type of retaining wall blocks that I currently have….I’m guessing most of that is probably materials.

If the majority of the soil was clay based I’d probably try to do it myself…..but it is very sandy and from a technique standpoint there would be less room for error on a sandy slope.

::sigh::

View DavesYard's profile

DavesYard

301 posts in 171 days
hardiness zone 5b

170 days ago

3K seems kind of steep (no pun intended lol). Then again I am not too familiar with material costs. I guess it’s better to have it professionally done with some kind of warranty, rather than spending 2K and having it all fall apart (not critisizing you personally).

-- Remember when you were young, you shone like the sun.. shine on you crazy diamond

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MikeHGA79

17 posts in 187 days

170 days ago

Yeah I agree…...just not worth the investment/risk.

View jroot's profile

jroot

3123 posts in 744 days
hardiness zone 5a

71 days ago

spam ???

-- jroot

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jroot

3123 posts in 744 days
hardiness zone 5a

71 days ago

My last comment was based on some spam which Michal has removed. I have enjoyed this discussion.

-- jroot

View redryder's profile

redryder

6 posts in 79 days

70 days ago

The current issue of “The Family Handyman,” May… 2010 has a very straight forward DIY article on wooden stairways. The kind of project a person could do if not afraid to get your hands dirty. I like this magazine because they explain lots of detail in an easy to understand format and most of the projects are do-able for the average person….....

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